Penned by Alina K. A.

In the winter, as folks fire up their furnaces, the warm smell of piñon pours out of chimneys and lingers in the adobe streets. It follows us as we make our way through the alleys, to the plaza, and past the city’s ancient cathedrals. The sweet, woody scent is pervasive throughout Santa Fe.

Before I decided to pay it a visit, I didn’t know that it’s actually one of the oldest towns in America; it’s been a pueblo occupied by native Americans for nearly a thousand years and a western outpost since the early 1800s. Something about it feels magical, like a southwestern fairytale.

I can see why New Mexico is known as the land of enchantment. The houses are quaint and cute and nearly all of them are in the traditional adobe style. Around Christmas, Liminarias, lanterns traditionally made of candles in paper bags, light the city streets and paths. They line the tops of adobe walls and roofs and bring warmth to the freezing nights with their warm glow, which feels as if it comes from another time or a different world; or maybe other worlds feel closer, as if the lights guide spirits back to their homes.

There’s a myriad of opportunities to fall under Santa Fe’s spell. For one theres’s the food — green and red chili is a specialty in the area, and it’s especially delicious over some enchiladas like the ones at Los Magueyes, where if you’re lucky you may also catch some live music. And you can’t leave Sabta Fe without finding some sopapillas or other puff pastries, which are especially divine and fluffy at higher altitudes, which Santa Fe is.

Those fond of the finer things in life will find that drinking is also a whole lot more interesting at altitude since the effects of alcohol are amplified due to the lack of oxygen.

In the evenings and during winter it’s very cold, so after the sun goes down, a good place to go is the Breakroom; a cozy neighborhood hideout perfect for sampling some of Santa Fe Brewing Co.’s magical creations and making friends with charming long haired damsels and scruffy mountain men.

During the day, few things are better than exploring the hidden shops and art around town.

On Sundays, locals sell jewelry and crafts on the plaza. Turquoise is a hot commodity. The gorgeous stone is indigenous to the area, the knockoffs aren’t, but they’re just as common.

One of the most popular destinations in town is the Georgia O’Keefe museum. The artist lived in the area during the second part of her life; her home at Ghost Ranch is another popular destination — although, it is a little ways out of town.

O’Keefe’s work was vastly inspired by New Mexico’s scenery and spirit. Her paintings often focus on the abstract beauty of nature, juxtaposing pieces of life and death, skulls and flowers, bones and colors. Her pieces are both gentle and dramatic. One of my favorite is of a view out of an airplane, where a sea of puffy clouds stretches into the horizon.

On the same block as the museum is a fantastic bookstore called Gunstock Hill Books, owned and operated by Dr. Henry A. Lewis. The shop features some local works and also an extensive collection of first editions, some signed. Hemingway, London, and Vonnegut all have a place on Henry’s shelves, and they come at a very reasonable price.

When we walk in and make our way to the back of the shop, he’s sitting behind his desk talking to a customer who seems to be a regular of the shop. The room is both and office and the space housing precious signed first editions of classic fiction.

He has a very familiar face and his way of talking is somewhat stern but very comforting and warming at the same time, like that of an old relative or Tom Hanks.

Originally from New Hampshire where he was a surgeon for many years, he moved to Santa Fe after he retired and opened up shop. His left arm doesn’t work all that well, but he’s sharp and full of insight, especially when it comes to any of the books lining his shelves. His charm is infectious and will make you feel inadequate leaving without picking up at least one of his precious literary gems.

Like so much of Santa Fe, Henry is a gem. And when we leave, we let him know that we’re definitely coming back.