Before going to Cuba, I was told to lower my expectations. Granted, my expectations were high: I expected beautiful architecture, friendly people, and lots of music. Was I wrong? How could a country notorious for its rich culture and passionate people be anything less?
We arrived in Camagüey, the capital city of Cuba’s largest province, which shares the same name. I was expecting a tiresome customs process and was quickly surprised by its swiftness. We scanned our belongings, spoke with a couple customs agents, picked up our baggage and were out the door in minutes.
The parking lot outside was only half full of cars, most of which were 1950s models of American classics. Our taxi was a red and white 1950s Plymouth. As we made our way into town, we passed several horse-drawn carriages that were made of upcycled car parts. Horses and other animals were grazing on the side of the road. There wasn’t any traffic because there never is.
Camagüey is one of the oldest cities in the Americas – it celebrated its 500th birthday in 2014. Its history makes up a lot of its charm, as do the legends. I was fortunate enough to get a tour of the city, its galleries, and historic sites from Jaime Lopez. Jaime is the director of a local radio station, a writer, ceramist, and a Camagüey native.
As we wandered down the streets of old town, he explained that the crooked streets were built that way so that the inhabitants could better ambush and protect themselves from pirates. One of these streets is also the shortest street in Cuba. Interesting and unexpected facts like these are what makes the town impossible not to fall in love with.
In the evenings, Camaguey is spellbound. The sleepy streets are cast in ornate shadows from the intricate bars on doors and windows. The sound of horse hooves and carriages echoes through the streets. People relax in their living rooms letting the cool air roll in or sit puffing a cigar on their stoops. The ambient sound of music from peoples homes and local bars echoes throughout the city late into the evening.
We spent the evenings and the days with the family: drinking beers in the backyard, sorting rice, taking turns turning a baby pig over coles, and going through old photos. The whole family gathered at the house with old friends and neighbors filtering in and out.
Our stay in Camagüey was short but sweet. There was still a lot to see, and we made a commitment to come back as soon as we could since so far, everything had exceeded our expectations.
Penned by Alina K. A. 