Traditionally, the Amber Cosst refers to a short coastal area of roughly 100 miles (250ish km) which only runs down the shore of Kalingrad, but I think that most of the Amber laden Baltic Sea and it’s estuaries are deserving of the title, including my homeland Latvia.
Latvia isn’t a place most people have heard of, but those who have, often know about the well kept secret of its charm.
Unlike most post places on people’s European itiniaries, Latvia is remote and not overrun with tourists. It’s Europe’a new best kept secret.
Since its induction into the European Union, the country has undergone a bit of a transformation — it has cleaned up after a long, painful hangover.
Rīga, the Capitol, has received a European face lift at the hands of its new, controversial mayor Nils Ušakovs; who has Russian roots, and as such is the near equivalent of the antichrist to the Latvian majority. Still, most will agree that over the last few years, despite its dwindling population, Latvian has become a unique example of positive European influenced transformation.
Since I’ve visited Latvia last, about five years ago, it has become more deserving of its magical reputation which has always been obvious in its lush neon green country side, but more often than not understated in the countries major cities.
In Riga, a giant new library has been erected on the coast of Daugava — the biggest river in Latvia which runs straight through the capitol. The building is frowned upon by some of the locals due to the high Cost of its maintanence, which is rumored to be €100,000 for the window cleaning bill alone. But from the perspective of a visitor it is quite beautiful and unique in its structure, which looks like a massive open book laying face up on Daugava’s bank.
Old Riga, the cities 800 year old center which has always been praised for its fairytale-like Northern European appeal, is even more stunning than ever due to the refurbishing of a most of its previously post-soviet era grungy parts. The central canal is full of small boats and the lush central park’s paths are full of people enjoying Latvia’s favorite past time: walking around.
Rīga as well as its nearest resort town Jūrmala are experiencing a creative transformation led by young artisans and business owners who take pride in creating modern spaces that are influenced by traditional Latvian and Russian motifes, resulting in simple yet chic vibes evident in new cafes, bars and restaurants that line the cities’ boulevards.
Still, for a quintessential Latvian experience it’s mandatory to enjoy some small town living on a datcha or a somewhere in the countryside. My favorite of these is Saulkrasti which is on the coast of the Bay of Rīga about 20 miles north of the capitol.
There you can find the best traditional Latvian baking in the towns renowned Bemberi bakery or have a cocktail in one of the beach side bars. It’s just as good of an idea to pick up some beers and sausages to have a little picnic at one of the nearby lakes.
Put of the myriad of yet to be discovered activities and places in Latvia there is something for everyone. Make friends with someone’s grandma or cousin for some traditional food like kotletas or šašlik. Get a real Russian Sauna experience in the countryside.
If all else fails, just walking on the amber speckled shore of the Bay, which stretches along most of Latvias shoreline, will be a magical experience in itself.
Penned by Alina K. A. 